Kise Buku (Church Bay) is one of our personal favourites on the northern side of the Gulf of Gokova. In the middle of a beautiful serene bay are the ruins of a village which was deserted after the 1923 population resettlement organised by the Allies.

After the recent dispute between Greece and Turkey about territory at the end of the First World War, the Allies defined that any Christians living on the Turkish mainland were in fact Greeks, and were mainly forcibly moved to Cephalonia. Equally Muslims on the Greek islands were defined as Turks, and sent to Ankara. Kise Buku became deserted from that time on, as the soul had gone out of the village after the Christians left. The ruins are both infinitely beautiful and sad, and a walk around the ruins leads to the inevitable conclusion that nothing good comes out of the mass forced movement of people.

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